OUGD504- Final Layout and Content Production

Content

I altered some of the layout to create a better flow to the images, when considering the depth of gutter needed on some pages. The type should also be reduced from 12pt to 10pt. 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B64S5CH6Ty4_djFpN0FoNGpJakU/view?usp=sharing

The Cover

Selecting threads at PECO Embroidery. During the tour Andy, one of the senior members of staff, explained how the embroidery machines worked and how the thread count determined pricing. I opted for a mid grey/silver, reflecting the black and chrome aesthetic of Harley. After getting the black and orange test sample made, the Orange proved to be way too garish and racer like. As the book will be less than arms length, the type size would need to be reduced (or the orange darkened), so not to be so vivid and blinding. However, if the orange becomes a darker tone, it would no longer be the same as the Pantone H.D Orange to which was chosen specifically. The orange will still play a feature in the publication, instead by inserts/blank pages rather than embroidery. The legibility of the orange type was outstanding, hence why it is used on patches and leather jackets- it was simply too much for this purpose. To compensate, an orange stitching could be implemented around the outside (similar to the collectors edition travel case), but as each time I want something embroidering its about a 3 or 4 day turn over, going down the embroidery route isn't something I can alter or amend quickly. 

 After researching the Harley colours, this colour code matched the Pantone reference for Harley's HDMA Silver/Grey, P 179-3 U.

Ideal

The cover ready to send to the embroiders. This caters with exact measurements the cover, gutter, soft curve spine and back cover. It is questionable wether the spine will even work as I have moved away from a solid hard spine to a natural fold. I have done this to enhance the softness of the real leather, when real leather is used.

Dealing with the false-leather

Final grey board composition. The spine was removed to give a soft curvy finish. This could be accompanied by a thin piece of frabric circling the edge with the spine information on. A hard gutter is created with a 5mm gap after the main form of the book, to allocate an area for the skrews to go through. By having a gap of just leather, the book can fold more easily, allowing the book to lay flat and act as a coffee table book about 1/4 of the way through (at which point there is an even weight distribution for the pages to lie flat). The back cover remains

hardback to preserve a solid feel. The edges of leather will be wrapped around, held using Copydex fabric glue and extra strong superglue for those raised edges. Any additional scuffs on the fabric will be touched up if necessary by midnight black fabric paint. I will leave a 4mm gap rather than a 3mm edge gap to cater for the thickness in material. If the book was to be produced with real leather, these measurements may need to be altered.

The best way to get a hole through all of the pages, and both front and back covers without damaging the fake leather. It was a concern that the bad quality of the 'leather' rips easily, so getting a tidy hole through without a dremmel gun would be an issue. As my father is an engineer, he helped me decipher a way to solve this problem. We trapped the leather in between two pieces of wood, a 5.2mm drill then goes through the wood, into the leather and back into the bottom piece of wood. This means the fast spin on the drill wouldn't have the freedom to move trapped in the vice, so the quality is maintained.

Final leather piece to cover the book, complete with spine and blurb detail